Specialist artisans Eloise Grey tailoring and carréducker bespoke shoes are launching a new tweed shoe collaboration at the Goodwood Revival in September.

carréducker Winkers for Eloise Grey are louche classics with a contemporary take on the Long Island beach or English house shoe. Featured in Eloise Grey tweeds sourced from the Isle of Mull, they epitomise the relaxed glamour of the ‘30s – the era of Brideshead Revisted and The Great Gatsby – with elegant lines and a raffish, fringed top edge. Crafted in England they are available in Cream & Fawn Diamond, organic Blue Woad & Cream Herringbone and organic Silver Herringbone.

The shoes complement Farnham-based, Eloise Grey’s pared down, timeless tailoring and aesthetic. She works in fine fabrics that embody sustainable qualities resulting in a product that is to be treasured. Eloise will be showing her Autumn collection of tweeds jackets and coats for ladies and gentlemen. Inspired by literature, paying particular homage to the Bloomsbury set  the collection includes style such as the Woolf coat, after Virginia Woolf. Alongside this she will present her collection of fine linens blouses inspired by Persephone Books and plain wool or linen trousers (the Vita breeches) to complement the tweeds.

Where Eloise is Bloomsbury inspired, carréducker are Bloomsbury based.

Trained by a master shoemaker for John Lobb, the bespoke shoemaking experts celebrate the natural qualities of the materials they work with and are showing a selection of shoes and boots handsewn in their studio in the finest box calf and exotics. They have also incorporated tweed and canvas into a capsule collection of new bespoke styles and offer Winkers in Harris and Dashing Tweeds.

carréducker are on hand throughout Goodwood Revival to discuss retro detailing and to take orders/ measurements for bespoke shoes and belts. Their service includes creating lasts individual to each customer, design and leather consultation, at least one fitting and the completed shoes delivered with bespoke shoe trees.

Eloise Grey and carréducker are showing on stand number 32.

For further information and high res. images:

Eloise Grey: E: contact@eloisegrey.com; T: 07910 963737

carréducker: E: cd@carreducker.com; T:020 7813 0093; M: 07710 077404

EDITOR’S NOTES:

Eloise Grey tailoring is in materials sourced for their particular aesthetic, sustainability and artisan qualities. Behind each fabric is a story and an approach to making which emphasises British craftsmanship. Eloise’s customers are individuals who wish to tell their own story with their clothes, such as Priscilla Carluccio who has commissioned the Eloise Grey ‘Elizabeth’ coat for her Brompton Road boutique, Few & Far. Stockists: www.eloisegrey.com; Eloise Grey, Farnham Maltings, Farnham (by appointment); Few & Far, Brompton Road, London, Haleluja, Brussels. (Menswear), Ardalanish Weavers, Isle of Mull.

carréducker specialise in bespoke shoes, continuing the centuries-old English craft of handsewn shoemaking, by designing and making shoes for an array of international clients. Keen to pass on their skills and the great benefits of handsewn shoes, they teach two-week intensive shoemaking courses in New York and London. They also manufacture the Winkers slip-on in England, in a selection of hand woven British Isles’ tweeds. Winkers stockists: Wolf & Badger, Notting Hill, London; Leffot, West Village, New York; Brogue, Geneva; carreducker Bespoke: carréducker, Bloomsbury, London (by appointment only); Thom Sweeney, Mayfair, London; Stowers Bespoke, Savile Row, London; Marsha Hall, Great Bookham, Surrey.

The Goodwood Revival runs from 17 – 19 September 2010 at Goodwood, Chichester, Sussex. A magical step back in time, this is a unique chance to revel in the glamour and allure of motor racing. The Revival is the world’s most popular historic motor race meeting and the only event of its kind to be staged entirely in the nostalgic time capsule of the 1940s, 50s and 60s that relives the glory days of Goodwood Motor Circuit. It is the biggest and best historic motor racing party of the year.

Eloise Grey is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

AVAILABLE FOR HOLIDAYS FROM 1 JUNE 2011. A 1969 traditional wooden horsebox, converted into a beautiful living space for two people. The horsebox is situated in a small wooded area on a fully organic working smallholding of eight acres. Within, it sleeps two comfortably and has a small fitted kitchen with good cooking facilities. There’s also a snug seating area in front of a wood burning stove [wood supplied]. A short distance away is your own solar/wood stove shower and a compost loo with a turf roof. We are situated two miles from the north coast. Perranporth and St Agnes offer good surfing and coastal walking. Kayaks, body boards and bicycles are available. The local pub serves fine food, and is only a short walk away. http://www.organicholidays.co.uk/at/2888.htm

Organic Holidays is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

No-one is exactly certain how wire art came about. The most likely origins of this art form are the tranquil hills of Maputoland and Zululand in rural Northern Kwazulu-Natal, in the North-East corner of South Africa.

For many years, due to a lack of resources to buy proper toys, the young herdboys of these regions have been fashioning their own out of discarded coathanger wire, tin cans and whatever else they can get their hands on.

Their ingenuity is quite amazing, and it is not an uncommon sight to see one of these boys steering a fully functional, made-to-scale model car crafted solely from discarded materials, complete with independent axles, fully functional steering column and a keen attention paid to details such as licence plates, headlights and in some cases, optional extras like mag wheels

It wasn’t long before older inhabitants of the area, recognising the uniqueness and marketability of these wire toys, began making their own wire creations and selling them to tourists and visitors to the region, and the vibrant medium of wire art was born.

Today, this genre is a thriving and legitimate art form in its own right, with many ‘wiremasters’ supporting their families by selling their creations on street corners, at craft markets, in shops and selected art galleries.

Products range from working wire radios in a number of shapes and sizes, to CD stands, keyrings, wire picture frames, baskets, vases, wine racks, egg cups, beaded sculptures, in fact the scope and range of wire art products is almost limitless. A common thread running through all these creations, and one which sets them apart from most other art forms, is the fact that the majority of wire art is designed not only with ornamental value in mind but also to be functional in one way or another.

These are genuine, original hand-crafted examples of African art that not only look great, they often also serve a purpose in the home or office.

Streetwires believe strongly in the broad appeal of these unique pieces of Africana, and are proud to bring the medium of wire art to the attention of the international community by giving their deserving local wiremasters an opportunity to display their wares on a global stage.

Streetwires focuses on the unique and dynamic genre of wire art, their Proudly South African project Streetwires is providing the skills, training, support, and raw materials necessary to enable over 100 formerly unemployed men and women to channel their natural creative energies into this vibrant art form.

A select range of Streetwires’ products are available from Urban Africa. Please visit the Streetwires website for more information on their products and their company.

One of the most popular products is a working wire radio. The wire radio is hand made and can pick up most FM frequencies. A unique gift for any music lover or connoisseur of wire art. Each radio has beaded work displayed in the traditional Ndebele pattern and comes with 9V battery.

The bead work can be customised and is the perfect corporate gift as the bead work can incorporate logos, text or company colours. Please email Ryan or Sharon at info@urban-africa.co.uk for more information. Please allow 6 – 8 weeks for delivery.

Urban Africa is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

‘When installing an underfloor heating (UFH) system either in new-build or refurbishment, utilizing the skills of a supply and design company will lead to the most cost-effective and efficient system,’ says Gary Davies, a member of Nu-heat’s Trade Team.

Gary strongly believes that when an installer is prepared for an in-depth conversation at the outset, the team will come up with the right options for the project. ‘If we have detailed information about a job we can be confident that we have provided the best possible solution,’ says Gary, ‘and the installer will know that each element of the heating design has been planned to suit their individual build. The more detail we have to work with the better.’

The ideal scenario is for an enquiry to be received at the earliest stages of a project, enabling the UFH specialist to take into consideration all the relevant factors associated with the installation.

Most installers understand that a property needs good insulation to ensure that the lower temperatures of UFH maintain peak comfort levels in the home. This is easiest to achieve in new-build, but in refurbishment and retrofit situations it is vital to use a design and supply company that will carry out the critical heat loss calculations. This will ensure that existing insulation levels are taken into consideration and the resulting heating design will achieve optimum performance. Details about the size of the rooms, window structure, ceiling height and glazing all help with these calculations.

Understanding the overall project, including timescales, allows the team to offer practical solutions. For example, in a refurbishment project with major time constraints they might suggest a floating floor to avoid the need for screed drying times (1 day per mm for the first 5mm, 2 days for each subsequent mm). Although screed is usually deemed the best option in terms of system output, as the screed acts as a thermal store, a well-designed floating floor system will also offer an excellent result. In general, a floating floor also offers less of a floor height build up as illustrated by two of Nu-Heat’s most popular floor constructions: SC14 with a screed depth of 65 to 70mm in contrast to DPF14 floating floor at 25mm plus chipboard or ply at 18mm.

Where a fast, clean install is required, such as in a renovation with new extension where the building is still occupied, practical solutions can be offered. In this case the answer is likely to be a floating floor or a panel system between joists.

When a project includes first floor underfloor heating and the details suggest that the chipboard or ply deck will be installed upstairs prior to the UFH, the UFH specialist may well suggest the use of a product like Nu-Heat’s ClippaPlate™ system, meaning that other work won’t be interrupted as the UFH can easily be installed from below. Another popular floor construction, TPB 14 – suspended joists, mineral wool insulation, air gap, reflective cellular foil insulation, ClippaPlate ™ diffuser plates (fitted either between or over joists), 14mm tubing and timber floor – meets this requirement perfectly.

However, in a refurbishment scenario where the ceiling is in situ or not being replaced, work must be carried out from above without any floor height build up. In this case, for example, batons can be attached to either side of the joist, followed by ply deck, tracked polystyrene insulation, diffuser plates and finally the UFH pipe that finishes flush with the top of the joist level (floor construction DPJG14).

Where joists are of different sizes, suggestions could include a biscuit screed or floating floor construction. If, however, the staircase has already been installed, a floating floor option may not feasible due to floor height build up.

A design and supply company is only as good as the information it is given. With the right details, the UFH specialist will be able to ‘think outside the box’ and arrive at the best solution for the property.

In one instance, an installer approached Nu-Heat with a fairly challenging refurbishment plus new extension, creating two different floor constructions in one room – on one side new screed and on the other existing timber with irregular centre spacing. To ensure ease of design and installation along with continuity of performance, Nu-Heat advised putting batons into the new screed at the same centre spacings as the existing timber, and using a biscuit screed on the joisted area. This had the added benefit of giving continuity for fixing the new wood flooring.

Finally, there is ethical selling – a concept that Nu-Heat for one is fully behind. ‘If it becomes apparent that UFH is not going to perform,’ says Gary, ‘a reputable design and supply company should tell the installer at the earliest opportunity so insulation levels can be improved or alternative heating systems considered.’

Nu-Heat is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

There’s nothing like finding a hidden gem in an antique shop, charity shop or thrift fair. The thrill of finding a fashion or furniture piece that hold links to the past and its very own story is quite unlike any other shopping experience. However, with today’s fashion trends embracing and popularising the vintage look, these wonderful one-off pieces are sadly becoming hard to come by without the accompaniment of a sizeable price tag. That is, until Scaramanga…

Established in 2006 by Carl Morenikeji, Scaramanga offers a unique range of all things vintage; from fashion accessories and hand-made notebooks through to vintage and retro household furniture and accessories.

And better still, you can buy with a clear conscience, safe in the knowledge that Scaramanga takes great pride in trading fairly with all suppliers. The majority of suppliers are small-scale family run businesses who specialise in traditional artisan and craft based industries that use traditional materials, methods and skills. Additionally, the Scaramanga team always make regular trips to visit suppliers in order to maintain close, long-term relationships and to make sure ethical standards are being met.

Available both online and in store, you can find the popular range of vintage leather satchels and messenger bags which are made using traditional tanning processes, and the huge selection of restored old wooden chests and boxes. You will also find unique pieces of expertly crafted vintage and antique furniture including: chairs, cupboards, old cabinets and vintage mirrors; as well as vintage cushions, bedspreads, jewellery and the large range of more than 30 different hand-bound leather and silky sari journals, sketchbooks and photo albums.

www.scaramangashop.co.uk

Scaramanga is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

Bulls Cottage nestles in the courtyard next to Eversfield Lodge on our organic farm. It is perfect for a couple or a small family seeking a tranquil rural setting. Patio doors open onto decking and the garden that overlooks Dartmoor, where guests can wander and enjoy the plants and flowers. A small stream tumbles down through pretty shrubs to a natural pond, a magnet for birdlife. The cottage is surrounded by our working farm amid the rolling scenery of the Devon hills. The hedgerows, meadows and garden are a haven for wildlife. 850 acres of the most beautiful countryside, quintessential Devon, are at your disposal. We will be delighted to answer questions about the estate, and explain what makes our organic meat so special. http://www.organicholidays.co.uk/at/2886.htm

Organic Holidays is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

Take Off With The Mile High Club!

Come fly with us and check in for our August sale items; saving up to 19% off on our Ethical Silver ‘Mile High’ necklaces.

Fifi Fantasy Airlines offers you the best of stay-cation treats, including our Drift 9ct Ethical Gold & White Topaz necklace designed to take your mind to distant shores and sandy beaches and our Caravan necklace which is perfect for working the summer Festival season look (both included in our summer sale!).

In case of emergency, you will find our super-fast delivery service invaluable. Fifi Bijoux Jewellery should be worn around the neck, on the ears and on the fingers to attract maximum attention. Should your air supply fail whilst browsing through our web boutique, please be assured this is purely excitement and try to breathe normally.

Our on-board crew will be happy to assist you with any questions, please press the ‘contact us’ button for details.

Now sit back, relax and enjoy. We wish you a pleasant visit.

http://www.fifibijoux.com/shop/

Fifi Bijoux is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

Model Naomi Campbell testified that she was given some ‘dirty looking stones’ in 1997. Read the BBC news story here and hear her testimony:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-africa-10875811

Jeremy Vine gave a wonderful lunch time show  on BBC Radio 2  6th August on the issue of Blood Diamonds, Ethical Diamonds and War Crimes.

Listen to it by clicking here:

http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio2/shows/jeremy-vine/

Michelle Tuck called in and spoke  very well on behalf of  UK’s ethical jewellers . Fifi Bijoux maintains that the sale of blood diamonds finances conflict and thus can be implemented in war crimes and crimes against humanity in many civil war situations. Transparency and known provenance of diamonds is the surest method of protecting the consumer and the integrity of the jeweller. We specialize in sourcing ethically mined diamonds from known mining projects and origins.

You can learn more about the context of the case against Charles Taylor by viewing Brightwide’s film click the link below to be taken to their site and look for ‘Pray The Devil Back To Hell’

http://www.facebook.com/pages/Pray-The-Devil-Back-To-Hell/10831840869

Fifi Bijoux is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

School exams results are looming. Every child likes to pass GCSE and A level exams to demonstrate ability, recognition of a job well done in class and as a precursor to a job in industry or university place. But educational  observers believe we are lowering the exam relevance by playing games with the standards.

A notable critic from the world of science and chemistry believes too many people have vested interests in maintaining low educational standards.  Dr. Richard Pike, chief executive of the Royal Society of Chemistry, condemns politicians, examination bodies, schools and educational quangos of collectively lowering the educational standards.  He believes corporate bodies do not want to upset middle class parents who recognise exam results as a primarily measure of society’s expectations rather than true academic performance.

Many schools, hounded by league tables, see quantity rather quality as their prime objective.  Although the exam regulators have twice recently attempted to install tougher GCSE exams through the examination bodies little has been enforced. Proving educational quangos have little real benefit or clout Dr Pike believes the needs of universities and industry has failed to be incorporated in the curriculum. “This is not a broken system that has to be fixed it is a corrupt edifice that must be razed to the ground and rebuilt” he said.

Stern words from an eminent leader in the science educational world.  If we accept the future destiny requires the UK to evolve in a rapidly changing world such significant observations from the likes of Dr. Pike cannot be ignored.  Criticism of the standard of GCSE and A levels has been widespread for years, yet little corrective action has been achieved.  No wonder, if school league tables and parental expectations continue to be the focus rather than the demands of industry, we are unlikely we can expect change.  This will be a disaster. To continue as we are we would end up with every child being awarded a grade A in all subjects – just by being there.

The GCSE and A level results could end up as a junk bond; a worthless qualification and as much use as the MBA degree offered on line in two weeks.  The exam boards such as Edexcel, although willing to work with Ofqual to get the balance right, need to review their position.  Rather than maintaining  a conciliatory position and clearly floundering in their duties they must opt to take a fundamental leadership role.

A significantly higher qualification standard needs to be introduced. We cannot afford to let universities and industry criticise the standard and relevance of the exams. We at keen2learn believe this move needs expediency.  Many children parents may reel at the significance of such a move, but the changes in global employment opportunities may otherwise leave our children out in the cold. We need a Department of Education that strategically has the courage to seize the initiative and adopt the moves to introduce the changes quickly despite the cost cutting era we are in.  We are duty bound to provide our children with continuing education that is fit for purpose and  avoid the continuation of the faltering soft option where exam questions can be answered by reading yesterday’s newspaper.

Keen 2 Learn is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more

Solar PV panels worth £10-12,000, installed on your roof, free of charge – it sounds too good to be true, but is it really?

The ‘rent a roof’ model, as it is known, is proving attractive to installers and investors. A Shade Greener, Homesun and Isis Solar are just three of companies offering the service, and more will follow. So it’s good for business. But is it a good deal for the consumer too?

First let’s look at how it works. The company looks for homeowners with a south facing roof that is strong enough to install solar PV panels. They install a system free of charge, and agree to maintain it for 25 years. In return you sign a contract agreeing that they should receive the feed-in tariff income on all the electricity that installation generates for the full 25 years.

An average household solar PV installation is around 2kWp. It generates an income of around £800 from the feed-in tariff which, under a rent a roof scheme, will be assigned to the installation company. You will just benefit from a reduced electricity bill as a result of using some of the free solar electricity generated.

This saving may be up to £100 a year (on this size installation). The rule of thumb says that most people use half of the electricity they generate in the home, and half is exported to the grid. However, how much you actually benefit will depend on how much electricity you use during the day when the sun is shining. If all members of the household are out at work or school all day, then you’ll probably save less that that.

If you’ve got the capital to invest, and you want solar panels, it makes more sense to install the solar panels yourself and benefit from the feed-in tariff. Even if you have to take out a loan for the up front cost, Consumer Focus reckons it’s a better financial deal than renting your roof.

The government is due to introduce the Green Deal soon which will provide up to £6,500 finance for increasing home energy efficiency. The money will be paid back over a long period out of the savings in energy bills. It’s not clear yet whether solar panels and other microgeneration technologies will be included in the scheme, but if so the green deal will also be a better way of financing solar PV installations than renting your roof out.

So, if you don’t have capital, and don’t want to, or can’t afford to, take out a loan, is it a good deal? On the face of it, it could save up to £2,500 in electricity bills over 25 years (at today’s prices – although it’s likely to be more as energy prices rise). But I’d want to know more about all sorts of things before I went ahead. (I will be researching these over the coming weeks, so do keep an eye on the blog for updates). Here are some of my questions:

How much will I really save, based on actual electricity usage, and how much I’m at home during the day?

What happens if the panels break or stop generating?

Who is liable if anything goes wrong?

Will it impact my ability to sell the house? What happens if a buyer wants to remove the panels?

What, if anything, will I have to pay for?

Can I buy back the assigned feed-in tariff?

Who owns the kit? Is it insured? And if so, by who?

Who owns the panels at the end of the 25 year deal?

What happens if the company which installed the solar panels goes bust before the 25 years are up?

These are just a few of the questions I’d want to ask before going ahead with a deal. I’m sure you can think of more –  tell us at YouGen what you think of the scheme. Is there such a thing as free electricity? Are you tempted by the idea?

First published on YouGen blog. For more independent information on renewable energy, please visit the YouGen website.

YouGen is an active member of Ethical Junction, learn more