Sustainable fashion & textiles by Kate Fletcher is a journey into the current state of the fashion and textiles industry. Kate explores in great depth the different textile manufacturing processes and questions the ethics and ecological impact of the current systems. The book also delves into what kind of long-term damage the fashion industry is currently creating within the textile industry before broaching the subject of using suitable alternatives. Providing industry-led knowledge and facts that promote discussion around the themes of sustainability and responsible fashion design Kate demonstrates a vast knowledge on a little known subject. Acting as both a comprehensive guide and in-depth critique the book asks important questions about the future of fashion. After much analysis and various case studies, alternative solutions into the actions that could be taken are then provided.

On a personal note, I was given this book to review in the same week that I had thrown away over half of the clothes in my wardrobe. I had taken a long hard look at myself in the mirror one day and realized that I resembled a jumbled-up mismatched looking character in clothes that I had bought throughout various stages of my life. After investigating further, I noticed that nothing seemed to match in my wardrobe or seemed to draw on my own beliefs or qualities and reflect the ‘real me’. It dawned on me that throughout my twenties I had been slavishly following fashion rather than dressing to fulfill my values, principles or even my body shape. Having started work recently at an ethical and eco design company, I decided that I needed to redress the consumerist choices that I had made. 

Now although I’m an avid reader of Vogue and various other fashion magazines and know that deep down the way that we look and dress is not fundamental to our wellbeing, I still find myself gazing upon those glossy pages with both desire and fascination. I feel its not always because I am being sold an idea or image, but often because I just simply love beautiful, brilliantly designed clothing. However, I am faced with the reality that I cannot afford to buy these amazing pieces and I am then motivated to seek out the alternatives on the high street. This demonstrates a huge gap between a regular reader of fashion magazines and the actual fashion industry. High-street stores have stepped in and created a bridge between the two worlds, albeit a slightly dodgy, wonky bridge which is creating more problems than it is actually fixing. I think that there is a tremendous pressure through magazines, the media and also peer pressure to conform to the fashion industry’s visions and ideals. This then filters through into the high-street and before we know it we are a nation of clones. How good are we going to feel in a dress of questionable origin and fibre which is creating more environmental harm than good and all just to fulfill some irrational consumerist inner need? 

This book comes forward at a crucial moment in time. Whether you are a consumer of fashion, designer or involved in the world of fashion then you are already starting to ask some basic questions about the origins of your clothing and looking more closely at the quality of the fabric, longevity of the style and environmental impact that your clothing creates. ‘Sustainable Fashion and Textiles’ challenges the reader to question themselves about how you can still look stylish, without literally spending the earth and participating in the environmental impact of throw away fashion culture, not to mention the ethical issues surrounding the working conditions and pay of those who actually produce the clothes. This book manages to address these questions and more importantly demonstrates proven logical facts based on years of research. 

I urge anyone who is interested in fashion or textiles to read this book and to digest its contents thoroughly. It will serve as an extensive eye-opener and alter your perception of the way that we consume fashion. I realize that I for one have been completely transformed in my thinking after reading this book. It will now be a priority for me to make a point out of checking the labels of clothing that I’m contemplating buying in order to make more informed decisions about how I spend my money and which labels I should support. Kate Fletcher’s ‘Sustainable Fashion & Textiles’ has helped me to realise the importance of starting to invest in well-made pieces from eco and ethical clothing labels. The book provides the foundations for a radical new perspective and introduces a refreshing new way of expressing myself to the outside world through the decisions I make about the clothing labels I support and the clothes that I wear.

Rachel Holland – Neo Creative 

‘Sustainable Fashion and Textiles’ is published by EJ members Earthscan

All Pulse readers are cordially invited to the Public Open Day at the Greenshop’s new eco-building on Saturday 26^th April from 9am-5.30pm.

The following will be available on the day:

:- Guided tours of the new Greenshop Group eco-building, designed by award-winning architects Architype
:- Find out more about fitting solar thermal or solar PV, rainwater harvesting and insulation
:- View the widest range of natural paints in the UK (the new Greenshop Paint Catalogue will be available to pick up on the day)
:- A wide range of environmental books and magazines under one roof
:- Find out about recycled and Fairtrade products, bamboo flooring and recycled tyre carpets

If you would like to join us, do drop in – the tours will be going on through the day.

Kind regards,

Jo Moulds
(on behalf of the Greenshop Group)
www.greenshopgroup.co.uk
www.greenshop.co.uk
www.rainharvesting.co.uk
www.greenshopsolar.co.uk
www.auro.co.uk
www.consolar.co.uk
www.holbrook-garage.co.uk

Nick White has produced the most comprehensive guide on energy use and savings that I have come across.  ‘Saving Energy in the Home’ is published by Hodder and is produced in association with the brilliant Hockerton Housing Project.
 

The book really does cover the full range of issues about domestic energy consumption and how to use it more efficiently.  And it caters for everyone from novice to expert.  I started reading with a little voice inside my head saying "you’re not going to learn much here" – but the voice was wrong – I learned a great deal! 

Nick starts with some basic questions about why energy consumption is a very important topic and why increasing one’s own efficiency in the home is such a vital issue.  He then moves on to cover every aspect of the subject starting with how to carry out an energy self-assessment and details of what information is needed for the new Home Information Packs (HIPs).  There are chapters on basic things like space heating, cooking and lighting etc but more advanced aspects of the subject such as microgeneration and ground source heat pumps.  Each topic is subdivided into tasks that can be carried out easily and cheaply through to more complex and costly ideas.  And there are clear guides to issues like payback times, planning requirements and grant systems. 

Overall this book is a truly valuable addition to the growing library of information on energy issues.  I would strongly recommend it to anyone with an interest in the subject.  Buy a copy now…..

 Here’s an interesting study confirming that breast feeding reduces the likelihood of childhood asthma and wheezing.

Breastfeeding and childhood asthma: a six-year population-based cohort study by Pia Fredriksson et al

BMC Pediatrics 2007, 7:39doi:10.1186/1471-2431-7-39

Published: 28 November 2007

Background
The question of the protective effect of breastfeeding on development of asthma has raised substantial interest, but the scientific evidence of the optimal duration of breastfeeding is controversial.

Methods
The authors elaborated the optimal duration of breastfeeding with respect to the risk of asthma primarily, and secondarily to the risk of persistent wheezing, cough and phlegm in school age in a population-based cohort study with the baseline in 1991 and follow-up in 1997. The study population comprised 1984 children aged 7 to 14 years at the end of the follow-up (follow-up rate 77). Information on breastfeeding was based on the baseline survey and information on the health outcomes at the follow-up.

Results
There was a U-shaped relation between breastfeeding and the outcomes with the lowest risk with breastfeeding from four to nine months for asthma and seven to nine months for persistent wheezing, cough and phlegm.

Conclusion
Our results suggest a U shape relation between duration of breastfeeding and risk of asthma with an optimal duration of 4 to 6 months. A true concave relation would explain the inconsistent results from the previous studies.

You can read the full study here.

Jane Thurnell-Read

Health & Goodness

EJ Members Ecotopia are now stocking this really great addition to their range of garden products.  The Butterfly/Moth Habitat-Feeder is a great way of attracting a wide variety of butterflies to your garden.  Made by Wildlife World, the Habitat-Feeder is carefully constructed of reclaimed and/or FSC Certified timber and, amongst many other green business practices, the company uses only waterbased finishes on its wood products.

The Habitat-Feeder provides a feeding station for you to charge to attract butterflies and moths and, if sited carefully, the product gives a perfect shelter for hibernating varieties such as Small Tortoisehells, Peacocks and Commas.  I have only just installed my Habitat-Feeder and am looking forward to watching the action as the weather warms up.  I will report further on what I see in due course.

Ecotopia have a wide range of environmentally sensitive gardening products – click here to find out more.

Richard Barnett – Editor – Ethical Pulse 

Allthingseco is an online eco directory that also produces monthly eco news and special feature sections.  We would like to offer all Ethical Junction Members a free listing within our directory, and the opportunity to have one article published in the eco news or specials pages during this year.

Featured at the moment is a special on Eco Holidays, and coming up is Eco Gardening, a Summer Special with green events & fun eco summer days out, plus an autumn and Christmas section, so if you have any products or services you would like promoted, or just have a general eco/ethical news item do get in touch and we’ll reserve you space.

Please feel free to contact Sue at info@allthingseco.co.uk if you have any questions or suggestions!

Biofuelwatch have an email alert to MPs asking them to support calls for the
UK Renewable Transport Fuel Obligation (RTFO) and EU legislation promoting
biofuels to be suspended due to the emerging global food crisis. 

Please click here to go to the webpage to send your MP an email:
http://www.biofuelwatch.org.uk/mp-Mar2008.php

The Earth Care Manual: A Permaculture Handbook for Britain and Other Temperate Countries (Hardcover)
by Patrick Whitefield (Author)
RRP:  £39.95

“Eight years in the making“ !!! So the blurb goes..and, I can believe it! Such a huge tome, it meant  a trip to the local sorting office to collect it as no way could the postie shove this through my door! Not since JULIAN COPES’  masterful THE MODERN ANTIQUARIAN, has such an amazing book reached my coffee table, this, his long awaited study of permaculture, and never could it have come at a more important and valid time.

Scrupulously researched and written in an accessible style by Patrick Whitefield, one of Europe’s foremost permaculture teachers, designer and author of "How to Make a Forest Garden" and "Permaculture in a Nutshell", it is lavishly illustrated and filled with case studies and useful contacts.
The book takes a detailed view of designing sustainable systems both large and small, urban and rural, and is divided into three parts: the principles underlying permaculture as applied to soil, fertility, water, climate, microclimate, energy and materials, applying permaculture to buildings, gardens, orchards, farming, woodland and biodiversity ,and the permaculture design process in action, how to develop your home or project on permaculture lines, plus many useful skills and techniques.
I started reading this, as my own successes (and failures!) with organic gardening were happening, and my attempts to reduce my own carbon footprint are prevalent in my mind..for too long, I have felt helpless; that the human race was in fact doomed, and doomed by its own hand, to be swept away by mother earth’s attempts to stay alive – it has happened in the dim and distant past, and could happen again, if things don’t change, and change FAST – but this is also a day when I read that sales of vegetable seeds now outstrip the sale of flower seeds – a positive note to start on!
This book will be useful to both the novice and expert, with its welter of information, diagrams, case studies, photographs, charts – it’s all here, under one roof! The attention to detail is breathtaking; there’s nothing missed out from seed saving, to soil types, to climate change, veg growing, flower meadows…from the simple to the complex, no stone is left unturned. Obviously, people will be at different levels of expertise/knowledge when they come across this book, but that’s fine – everything is expertly explained and illustrated in a  text that will make sense to all, and I can imagine coming back to it many times. The book doesn’t rely on theory either – many case studies of permaculture in practice are referred to, really inspiring stuff, as well as a detailed resources section, so the reader may track down the raw materials they may need.
Any gripes? Well, I must admit to being amazed that Mr Whitefield isn’t a veggie! He does touch upon animal husbandry and welfare, but without wishing to go to far off the mark, I believe that veganism, if not vegetarianism, is a simple necessity in any sustainable lifestyle – put very simply, the planet cannot support the west’s meat-based diet, due to the huge amount of grain, oil and energy used to feed farm animals, rather than humans … but there you go, this is a book review, and that argument can continue elsewhere. Also, I was slightly saddened by the lack of colour pictures – there are many illustrations, but only one rather slight colour section. I imagine that this was a cost issue, but it does kind of make the book seem ever so slightly “academic”, rather than one you would enjoy just thumbing through on a sunny afternoon … a minor gripe though.
So to conclude, I can see that this book will achieve the status of a kind of Permaculture “bible”-it really is all here, for the novice and the professional, in both a practical and  a spiritual sense – if you want to move beyond grumbling about the world’s problems and want to become part of the solution and begin YOUR contribution to saving our planet.
Well, what are you waiting for?!

Review by Jason Robbins

What excellent timing to release this book. A book that every household should have as inspiration, education and easy to follow reference to reduce food waste, food miles and food bills!

However, the book assumes that you have a reasonable sized garden (under an acre is mentioned) and a suitable storage facility (shed or garage of ambient temperature, free of chemical and mechanical odours).  If you are in this category or can obtain good cropping land then this is for you.  The book is well laid-out and guides you through ancient (for the time when we do not have or cannot afford electricity) as well as modern methods (the freezer – whilst we can!).

It explains the fundamental aspects of how to minimise your food going off and goes on to explain a host of methods of storage for most crops from apples to zucchini and, brilliantly, supplies recipes to complement that knowledge. It is so comprehensive I am sure Mr Oliver will have it on his bookshelf and no doubt a TV series before you can say pickled peppers (see Spitfire Sauce – from the West Indies – on page 109).  It’s not just about chutney, jams and jellies; check out the cider and the wines.

Food for thought:  I thought of a couple of other sub-titles for this superbly written and designed book – Digging for Victory or, How to Survive Frightening Food and Fuel Price Rises!

Sadly, as with many great ideas, the masses or ‘middle England’ as Government is often heard to label the very people that would benefit most from such disciplines, probably do not have anywhere near an acre of garden (if one at all).

As their household disposable income is being expertly drained on the basics of living costs by direct and indirect taxation and they are being urged (and taxed) to recycle more, they are also the ones least likely to assist the country’s carbon footprint reduction due to ‘entry costs’ and decades of poor housing environments and insulation standards.

Every house-builder and government planning department should be encouraged to buy this book as it would be helping future house purchasers (and those applying for conservatory extensions) towards fuller sustainability if gardens and storage facilities were made mandatory.

Piers Warren
Green Books ISBN 978 1 900322 17 1

Review by Graham Burton